Wednesday, November 07, 2007

Day Two in Dublin. One Month Ago

It was Saturday. And it didn't start well.

I wasn't really wanting to go to the Guinness Factory early in the day but Craig insisted, because the 24 hour tickets we bought the night before were due to run out at midday, and he wanted to catch the bus to the factory. And use the 10% discount on entry that the ticket afforded us.
So we started walking to catch the bus and get some breakfast. Turns out that not many places in Dublin take debit. And there is a dearth of money machines. A fabulous combination! We walked and walked and walked. And walked and walked and walked. We finally found a money machine AND a café (which served burnt muffins. ick) which turned out to be right around the corner from the Guinness factory!
Then? realised that it was cheaper to use our student travel cards than the 10% discount.
And then my head exploded.

Iveagh house

The famous gate

THE Guinness gate.
When you look at it straight on, it looks like a pint of Guinness.
But of course I was there when the sun was at the worst possible angle.





Everything was very well signposted.
The factory was so large and convoluted that they have many many signs for the hapless tourist. And back in the day it had its own railway and hospital.
And ambulances. While they are just all Dublin ambulances now, I saw one driving around and under the white you could see the outline of where it used to say Guinness.

Oh and they had (have?) their own church!

Guinness Factory


Half a pint.

Half a pint.
(sorry! I had to.)

Really?

Inside the factory. The information is spread all over the walls.
Usually, that bugs me, but here it works very well.

Water water everywhere.

Huge barrells!

The Largest barrels (see the people down below?) hold 720,000 pints.



I left a message ...

Toucan?

The factory proper.

The factory proper.
It produces ... a lot of Guinness. A lot.
And most of it is consumed within Ireland!

James Joyce Quote

James Joyce quote on the window of the Gravity Bar.
If you're looking out at the right angle, you can see Martello Tower. But it was super crowded in the Gravity Bar so ... oops?
Also, look! a Mulligan!

Ring on the back of the Ticket

A removeable plastic ring gives us a free pint. Or soda.

Craig and his complimentary pint

Craig and his pint.

Me and my complimentary pint

Me and my pint.

Proof!

Proof!

Tickets!

Guinness is pretty ...

Looking back up at the Gravity Bar

Looking back at the Gravity Bar.



Craig at the Guinness Factory

Quit taking photos of meeeee

"Stop taking photos of meeeee!"

and stop making fun of my Guinness. Can we swap glasses?!

He made an adorable ick face after each grudging sip. But I never caught it on camera.

Trying to drink it ...

This is where I gave up:

This is where I got to ...

Please note Craig's in the background.

Guinness Turtle

Still more apologies to Lewis Carroll

And all of a sudden I started feeling horrible. Really dreadfully sick.
Evil muffin and Guinness. I don't think they agreed with each other.

After an all-too expensive stop at the gift shop, we emerged, blinking, to the light, three hours after we had gone in.

Pretty sign


And I really have to admit that it was probably best that we went early.
When we had arrived at the brewery we had joined a queue of maybe 80 people and waited 10 minutes to reach the counter.
When we left there was a queue of around 200 people inside, and outside a queue of around 300 queueing to queue to get in to the brewery!

St Paul's

St Paul's.
Quite a bit smaller than the one in London.

Bridge over the Liffey

...

Fighting waves of nausea. We had one more stop before heading back to the hostel.

Mulligan's Bar

Ta-Daaaaa.

yea. Not certain which is worse. Ew.

A former (and at heart) Mulligan standing in front of a bar formerly owned by Mulligans, on an errand for a Mulligan.







And sadly? that is where the day ended in Dublin.
We got back to the hostel and I lay on my bed in abject misery.
Horrible horrible horrible. I blame the Guinness.

P.S.

...

?


Obelisk! The word I was looking for was Obelisk (and lethologica or Anomic aphasia. And burritos.)

And in the image is the Wellington Testimonial (often incorrectly called the Wellington Monument) in Phoenix Park, Dublin and at 62m is the tallest obelisk in Europe.
It is kind of dwarfed by the Washington Monument in Washington DC at 169.29m. Bah.

Thank you Daddy-Dear.

Tuesday, November 06, 2007

One Month ago today (aka For Adrian)

One month ago today Craig and I woke up in Dublin.

The night before we had arrived in Dublin as well, so it wasn't much of a surprise. But we did then spend an hour walking around and around in circles trying to find our hostel.

Dublin Map


The hostel was approximately in the red circle. On the morning of the 5th we walked up to the Liffey using Upper Camden, Lower Camden and Wexford streets. They were populated with run down and almost-closed stores. Rubbish and vomit and graffiti.
I wasn't impressed. So I think I sent a message and my darling Irish cousin got rather miffed. So now, for the official record of the internet, I want to point out that a couple of days later we took Harcourt Street up past St Stephen's Green to Grafton Street. And it was lovely.

Bridge over the Liffey

Early morning over the River Liffey.

Beautiful weather

The sky was beautiful.
I wasn't really prepared for Dublin. I brought jerseys.

Craig and the Liffey


Our first stop. Like most, was O'Connell Street.
Welllllll ... to be entirely honest. Our first stop was Mulligan's bar. But it was closed and there were delivery trucks around and as such ... no photos and no evidence.

The GPO

The General Post Office

Gaelic

Detail on the GPO

The General Post Office

Merrion Square North

Poor pathetic gate

Wildes-ian Graffiti

Know why we stopped here? yet?

More Wildes-ian Graffiti

Wildes-ian & not so Wildes-ian graffiti.

Oscar Wilde.
Wildes-ian and not so Wildes-ian graffiti. I think, I don't really know. I can't read it.



A statue on one of the graffiti-laced plinths. Not certain if it has anything at all to do with Oscar Wilde. Of course.

Salut Monsieur Wilde

Whimsical? or sick?

Oscar's old house.

The birthplace of Oscar Wilde. And the Gaelic/English street sign.



A shamrock on the streetlight!!

Sunspot

There are over 400 Churches in Dublin.

There are over 400 Churches in Dublin

But over 600 pubs.

Beautiful light & beautiful jacobean buildings

DSC01146

Same doorways. Don't be fooled.

Museum of Modern Art


The Irish Museum of Modern Art.
We couldn't work out how to get inside. Besides walking through to the square in the middle and through to the gardens beyond. It was quite lovely.
We did manange to see some external installations but decided to move on to the infinitely less soul-destroying Kilmainham Gaol.

The waving girl

The Axe (and the Waving Girl) by Alice Maher

Axe

...

I can't remember what the tall thing is. But it's the second tallest in the world, after the one in Washington DC.
Damn ... that thing where you forget certain words.

Au revoir oldold hospital

Au Revoir old old hospital

Bonjour Kilmainham Gaol

Bonjour Kilmainham Gaol.
And your scary scary snakes.

Kilmainham Entrance

Scary snakes

Walls

Beware of the Risen People

Beware of the Risen People
That have harried and held. Ye that have bullied and bribed.


Joseph Plunkett

Joseph Plunkett took part in the 1916 rising.
Hours before his execution by firing squad at the age of 28, he was married in the prison chapel to his sweetheart Grace Gifford. They had 10 minutes alone.

Gaol-house door

Countess Markievicz!

Countess Markievicz

The Victorian part of the prison

Poor poor Grace Gifford

She snuck in paints & painted this

Poor Grace Gifford. She snuck in paints.

The yard

Tricolour

Kilmainham and a plane!

Kilminham & a plane!

imposing

I found myself choking up as I left the yard & the gaol.
I used to know this history like the back of my hand. Surprisingly it all came back quite quickly.

Craig took this one

And now for something completely different.

More like it ...

The old Jameson's Factory.

Jameson's

... I forget what this part is called.

Distillation

Jameson's Whiskey Barrel

My new drink!

My new drink. Jameson's & Cranberry. Craig had his with cola. Surprise surprise.

Graffiti

Well .. I didn't do this one.

the Sun sets on the 5th over the Liffey

And the sun sets over the Liffey on the 5th of October.

Seahorse!!

Seahorse!!


Craig and I spent the evening walking around Temple Bar trying to find somewhere to have dinner. We finally went into one "Italian" restaurant but after seeing they had Chicken Curry on the menu? I just had to get out of there. I'm sorry but that is just 7 kinds of wrong. Unless it is a fusion Italian/Indian restaurant.
Actually? that's still wrong.

We ended up waiting for 45 minutes inside a little cramped (actual) Italian place as groups of 4 left and were seated again and 3 couples waited.
Thankfully the food was more than worth it and it was a tiny little dark table with pasta and wine and dripping candles. Lovely.
Then we had to walk down the street of garbage all the way home. And watch people vomiting.